The best cheesemongers in Paris
September 28, 2022
Beauvau Market and Bastille Market
A trading place with 18th century origins, Beauvau Market in Bastille holds stories of its past, with an original fountain, flagstone floors and beams. Also known as Marché d’Aligre, the emporium is open from Tuesday to Sunday. While its 200 vendors have changed over time, its vibrant vibe hasn’t. This is the place for charcuterie, spices and of course, cheese. Fromagerie Langlet-Hardouin sells 350 varieties, from goats’ cheese from the Loire Valley to more unusual options laced with truffle and petals. On Thursdays and Sundays, Bastille Market nearby is another hot spot for local cheese, fruit and plump olives.
Beauvau Market, Rue d’Aligre and Place d’Aligre, 75012 Paris
Bastille Market, 13 Boulevard Beaumarchais, 75004 Paris
Keen to try something different? Eric and Patricia Lefebvre sell rare varieties in their fromagerie near Promenade Plantée in the 12th arrondissement. The husband and wife duo founded Fromageries Lefebvre in 1989, and it has since won the prestigious craftsmen competition Meilleurs Ouvriers de France (MOF). With its wooden floors, walls and vaulted ceiling, it resembles a Swiss chalet, however its 130 varieties promise a cheese journey across France, from Auvergne and Savoie in the French Alps to Normandy, the Jura mountains and the Pyrenees.
229 rue de Charenton, 75012 Paris
With its perfect rows of cheese stacked high like a game of Jenga, it can be challenging to choose from the 120 varieties on display in Laurent Dubois. The eponymous cheesemonger comes from a long line of cheese makers, and now has five branches across Paris – the third, Fromagerie Laurent Dubois Bastille, is a few streets north of Île Saint-Louis. Specialising in raw (unpasturised) milk cheese which he ripens and matures himself, in 2000 Dubois was granted the MOF award for his services to the craft.
97-99 rue Saint-Antoine, 75004 Paris
A favourite at Le Meurice, cheesemonger Marie-Anne Cantin established her brand in 1950. Milk pails lean against bottles of wine on straw among cows’, sheeps’ and goats’ cheese roundels in the fromagerie, which also sells chestnut honey and quince paste. The shop is a few streets from Champ de Mars near the Eiffel Tower, the perfect spot to cast a blanket and relax in the sunshine. Can’t decide what to buy? Cantin suggests, “For a picnic, I recommend Coulommiers, a cows’ milk cheese from our maturing cellars. It goes well with red wine such as Beaujolais or Graves from Bordeaux.”
12 rue du Champ de Mars, 75007 Paris
The pungent aroma of cheese hits you as soon as you walk into La Fromagerie des Martyrs near Gustave Moreau Museum, one of five Quatrehomme branches. Established in 1935 by Bernadette and Henri Surget, the family-run business is now in its fourth generation. Many of the MOF award winner’s 250 varieties of cheese are made on site. Unusually, it sells foreign cheese, as well as unconventional French flavours such as smoked Charolais marinated in Japanese whisky and The Rising Sun, a log of Sainte-Maure-de-Touraine filled with raspberries, fruit jelly and dried herbs from Provence.
26 rue des Martyrs, 75009 Paris
Header image courtesy of Marie-Anne Cantin
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