A neighbourhood guide to Rome’s Ludovisi district

For a captivating glimpse into Rome’s storied past, visit the historic Porta Pinciana – an ancient gateway set within the Aurelian Walls. While modern Romans pass by without a second glance, for visitors, this monumental site offers a window into another era. Built by Emperor Aurelian in the 3rd century, Porta Pinciana sits atop the renowned Via Veneto, marking a boundary that once stretched 20 km (12 miles) across Rome’s legendary seven hills.

Originally constructed as an entrance, Porta Pinciana was transformed into a fortified gate by Emperor Honorius in the 5th century. He converted its square tower into a semi-circular one and added a round tower on the left. Today, the remarkably well-preserved gate stands proudly with original features intact, including tooth-like merlons and arrow-slit windows – traditional characteristics of a castle.

Via Vittorio Veneto 196, 00187 Rome

Follow a winding path through lush greenery and past ancient, crumbling walls until an arched doorway appears – you’ve reached the Gardens of Sallust. Here, you can walk in the footsteps of Rome’s first emperor, Julius Caesar, the first owner of these historic gardens back in 49 BC.

After Caesar, the estate passed to the historian Sallust, and over the centuries, new rulers added their own touches: a racecourse, a temple, baths and fountains. While many original artworks have found new homes (the obelisk at the Spanish Steps came from here), the ruins still reveal incredible treasures, including impressive domes, intricate mosaics and colourful frescoes. Following a careful renovation, these enchanting gardens reopened in late 2022 to the delight of locals and new explorers.

Piazza Sallustio 21, 00187 Rome

Once a magnet for stars such as Audrey Hepburn and Coco Chanel, this pretty boulevard is full of bustling terrace cafés and striking architecture dating back to the 1880s. Named after a World War I battle against the Austrian-Hungarian military, the street was immortalised in Federico Fellini’s 1960 drama, La Dolce Vita.

Start from its southern end to see the shell-shaped, marble Api fountain, as well as the early 16th-century Capuchin Crypt, adorned with skulls. Sunset views from Porta Pinciana are particularly special – and opposite, you’ll find Harry’s Bar, a historic music venue that’s sure to see you into the night with some of the best live music in town.

Originally a cinema, this two-tier theatre was designed by Roman architect Marcello Piacentini, an advocate of the Fascist architecture that was popular between the 1920s and 1940s. In keeping with the period’s style, the 1949 building sports a symmetrical, cream-coloured exterior.

Today, this historic venue hosts classic shows and modern-day musicals, from Swan Lake to Mamma Mia!. While most performances are in Italian, everyone can understand the language of the classical concerts also on show here. Via Sistina 129, 00187 Rome

Perched on Rome’s second highest hill, this villa opposite Hotel Eden offers stunning 360-degree city views. Swiss architect Otto Maraini designed the property in 1905 with distinctive, neo-baroque elements, as well as impressive columns and balustrades, for his brother Emilio and his wife. When the couple passed away, it became the Swiss Institute in Rome. It now hosts two annual contemporary art exhibitions, showcasing the best emerging talent from the city’s creative scene, as well as open-air concerts in spring.

Visitors can enjoy regular guided tours of the marbles, stuccos and frescoes inside the villa before ambling around the garden, where palm trees provide a moment of shade. Via Ludovisi 48, 00187 Rome