A neighbourhood guide to Trastevere

From crumbling ancient residences to centuries-old piazzas, Trastevere is a neighbourhood with a very rich cultural identity. There’s the Museo di Roma – the permanent home of Ettore Roesler Franz’s famous 19th-century ‘Vanishing Rome’ watercolours – and also the Peruzzi-designed 16th-century Villa Farnesina, one of the city’s most famous buildings. This opulent masterpiece of Renaissance design features an incredible number of different frescoes painted by great Italian artists like Raphael. A private tour of this villa is a perfect way to soak up some of the city’s finest paintings, or you can head outside to visit the Palazzo Corsini – a late Baroque palace that houses a section of the country’s prestigious national art collection in its first-floor gallery.

Within Trastevere’s wonderful maze of medieval streets, you’ll find all manner of vintage and antique boutiques. Polvere di Tempo is a great place to discover antique timepieces, while the Twice Vintage Shop near Piazza di San Calisto offers high-quality vintage clothing. If it’s a weekend visit, head to the Porta Portese flea market that pops up every Sunday to uncover a gloriously retro collection of antique goodies. Food lovers will adore Antica Caciara Trasteverina, a century-old deli and master cheese emporium, while wine enthusiast will find an excellent stock of vintage labels in Les Vignerons, near the Mercato di Piazza San Cosimato.

From traditional trattorias and perfect pizzerias to high-end Italian cuisine, you can take your pick when it comes to eating out in Trastevere. Delicious ‘Cucina Romana’ is at its best in Da Enzo Al 29 – a petite trattoria tucked away by the river, where there’s always a queue (so remember to book ahead). Spirito DiVino is a certified Slow Food haven that brings the most gorgeous local ingredients to life in its organic menu. The trademark dish is Julius Caesar’s old favourite, ‘maiale alla mazio’, and there’s a wonderfully ancient wine cellar to see here, too. If you’re after a classic margherita with the thinnest, most delicious crust, head to Pizzeria ai Marmi, just a few minutes’ walk from the Garibaldi Bridge.

Da Enzo Al 29
Via dei Vascellari 29, Roma 00153
+39 06 581 2260

Spirito DiVino
Via dei Genovesi 31, Roma 00153
+39 06 589 6689

Pizzeria ai Marmi
Viale Trastevere 53, Roma 00153
+39 06 580 0919

This laid-back neighbourhood has an electric evening atmosphere, with cosy wine bars, stylish speakeasys and sleek cocktail lounges all competing for customers. The playful wall art in 8 Millimetri is just the start of this fun cocktail bar’s experimental jumble of vintage and eclectic décor, and we love the quintessentially local feel of Bar San Calisto – a retro-style coffee shop by day and bar by night, with a patio full of tables near Trastevere’s main square. With speakeasies starting to pop up all over the city, it’s worth filling out the pre-entry form to get inside Keyhole. This underground club has no signage outside, but its interior is draped in the most classic 1920s touches, with a bespoke cocktail menu made by expert mixologists.

8 Millimetri
Via del Moro 8, Roma 00153
+39 066 456 2508

Bar San Calisto
Piazza di San Calisto 3, Roma 00153
+39 06 583 5869

Keyhole
Via dell’Arco di San Calisto 17, Roma 00153

Trastevere is a neighbourhood with churches around almost every corner. Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere is a lovely and social square that’s dominated by the presence of the 12th-century Basilica di Santa Maria. This is one of Rome’s oldest churches, with columns pillaged from the Baths of Caracalla and a glorious golden ceiling designed by Domenichino in the 16th century. La Chiesa di Santa Cecilia is another religious treasure that was built in dedication to St Cecilia, the patron saint of music. Behind the beautiful Roman courtyard, there’s a cosmatesque crypt alongside a beautiful Baroque sculpture of St Cecilia and some stunning Giudizio Universale frescoes.

Just across the river from the city’s old historic centre, Janiculum Hill (or Gianicolo) is one of the best places to see Rome from above. It’s a leisurely 20-minute stroll along the Passeggiata del Gianicolo to reach the top: time this for sunset to see the city views at their most spectacular. From equestrian statues and Renaissance temples to a Baroque fountain that opened Paolo Sorrentino’s La Grande Bellezza, rewards for the climb are a medley of monuments that intricately decorate the peak. At 12pm each day, there’s a round of canon fire from beneath the statue of Giuseppe Garibaldi to commemorate the battle fought with French troops back in 1849.